An Innovative Chef's Pursuit of French Cuisine with a Japanese Soul

hortensia

Tabiiro’s picks: signature dishes

Meat dish cooked to a beautiful rosy pink

Ingredients from across Japan transformed into innovative French cuisine

A series of dishes with striking visual artistry

A dish that evokes the beauty of Japan and its four seasons

Seafood dish highlighting the flavors of seasonal ingredients

An Innovative Course for Food Lovers: "Menu Gourmand"

The "Menu Gourmand," French for "a course for gourmets," is a tasting menu of approximately 10 to 12 dishes served at both lunch and dinner, with the selection changing according to the season and availability of ingredients. Beginning with a signature dish and seasonal amuse-bouches, the meal progresses through seafood, meat, and rice dishes before concluding with dessert. From the open kitchen facing the counter comes a succession of innovative French dishes designed to engage all five senses through the interplay of "concentration and umami." Drawing on seasonal ingredients from across Japan, the course combines traditional French culinary techniques with the chef's creativity to produce inventive flavors.

• 

  Japanese Ingredients Shine in the Bouillon

  With "Concentration and Umami" as its guiding theme, the restaurant combines umami concentrated through French culinary techniques with the natural umami of Japanese ingredients, creating a synergy that enhances both. Its chicken bouillon is prepared by simmering chicken in kombu dashi (kelp stock), combining the umami of inosinate found in chicken with the glutamate found in kombu. This interplay creates a depth of flavor rarely found in traditional French cuisine.

• 

  Fermentation and Aging Reveal New Qualities in Ingredients

  Beyond the natural flavors of seasonal ingredients and the methods used to prepare them, the chef also explores the effects of fermentation and aging. Techniques include dry-aging tuna under refrigeration to enhance its umami and fermenting rice with koji (a traditional Japanese fermentation starter) to create a mousse. Drawing inspiration from Japanese food culture, the chef brings these techniques into French cuisine with his own creative approach.

Restaurant highlights

• 

  Tableware evoking the beauty of Japan used in French cuisine

  Japanese Spirit and Western Influences Reflected in Tableware and Cutlery

  Embracing the concept of "innovative French cuisine from Tokyo," "hortensia" incorporates Japanese aesthetics not only into its cuisine but also into its tableware and cutlery. The restaurant uses tableware featuring modern interpretations of Arita ware from Saga Prefecture, along with cutlery made by Ryusen Hamono in Echizen, Fukui Prefecture. By combining French culinary techniques with Japanese culture, the restaurant embodies the spirit of wakon yosai, blending Japanese sensibilities with Western expertise.

• 

  A sommelier recommends a pairing for each dish

  A Selection of 300 Wines for Pairing with the Cuisine

  The wine list features more than 300 selected labels from Japan and abroad, with a focus on French wines, and the sommelier recommends a pairing for each dish. A wide selection of nonalcoholic drinks is also available to complement the cuisine.

Interior

Open kitchen where fine cuisine comes to life

Calm interior with a gentle, warm atmosphere

A private room with enhanced soundproofing for added privacy

A dramatic fully open kitchen comes into view upon entering, with counter seats offering a close-up view of the chef at work. The interior is based on warm brown tones, and the gently curved ceiling adds to the soft, welcoming atmosphere. The private room features a monkeypod table with distinctive wood grain, custom-made chairs designed for comfort, and thick doors with high soundproofing performance.

From the Tabiiro Editorial Team

This is a restaurant that invites diners to savor not only the cuisine but also the chef's background and philosophy. The multi-course menu brings together ingredients from across Japan, traditional French techniques, and the chef's creativity, blending Japanese sensibilities with Western culinary traditions. Each dish had a strikingly different character, and the progression felt like watching a journey unfold. Even the tableware and cutlery reflected the aesthetic sensibility behind this distinctly Japanese approach to French cuisine.